Fabric and garment.



No. 862,613. PATENTE) AUG. 6, 1907. A. J. GUMNOGK. FABMG AND GARMBNT.

APPLICATION FILED APE.30.1904.

3 SHEETS-SHEET l .v n c A vJ1 mbawloz .93, Mq) v ARTHUR :JAMES CumnooKPATEN'TED AUG. 1907.

A. J'. CUMNQGK. FABRIC AND Mmmm@t APPLICATION FILED APR. 30.1904.

S14/m0144306 M55 @fum/www No. 862,613. y .PATENTBD AUG. 6, 1907. A. J.CUMNOGK.

FABRIC AND GARMENT.

APLPLIUATION FILED APR,30,1904.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

l @fvwm/Vio@ RTHU?? JAMES @mm/wm i au..

of which the following is a specification, accompanied l and the mannerof applying it to ashirt. Figs. 5 and. 6

' on a Jacquard loom at considerabe expense, I have expeditiously made,by harness weavingthan by the Parana? L. orties.

ARTHUR JAMES CUMNOCK 0F RYE, NEW YORK..

vtrannie AND GARMNT.

.No s252513.'

To'oIl whom. it rmay concern:

Bo it known that I, ARTHUR JAMEsCUMNocx, a citizgjr olglhe, UnitedStates, residence and post-office address Rye, New York, have inventedcertainlnew and useful'Improvements in Woven Fabrics and Garments,

by drawings.

The prime object of the invention is to simplify and reduce the cost ofmanufacturing garments and other articles of Woven fabric.

Cert-ain other objects are also accomplished, as will be apparent fromAthe followingldescript-ion oi the invention. i i

The accompanying drawings illust-rate several preforrcd forms of theinvention as'applied to garments, and from this tho nature of theinvention andits several parts as variously applied will -be readilyunderstood.

ln the dra-wings, Figure 1A shows aushirt embgdying certain parts of theinvention. Fig. 2 is a detail to show the construction of a portion othe sleeve. 'Fig 3 shows a collar and .manner of attaching it to ashirt. Fig. 4 shows across-.section of the same on the' plane 4-,4

are face view and section on the planeAG--G of a cuff Fig. 7 shows askirt. Fig. 8 shows one'part oi the invention as applied to the bodyportions df shirts. Fig. 9 isa diagrammatic cross section of fthe same.Fig. 10 shows one part oi the inventiori as applied to skirts.l Fig. llis a diagrammatic cross section .of the same. Fig. 12 shows a fabricembodying several sleeve inembcrs for shirts iri accordance with thisinvention. Fig. 13 is a diagrammatic section of the same. Fig. 14 is asimilar view showing trousers legs -Woven in the fabric. Fig. l5 is adiagrammrtic section of the same. In Figs. l to 4 the construction o ashirt consisting of four woven parts in addition to the trimmings, isshown, the body portion and nach of the sleevesand collar being woven intheloomg'and requiring only tobe cut out, sew'ed together, and finishedin certain minor respects and trimmed. While all this might beaccomplished made my present invention in connection with anotherinvention which forms the subject-matter of a co-pend ing application.filed Aug. l5, 1904, Serial No. 220,737 and by which these articles canbe more cheaply and ordinary methods of cutting them out and 'nanufaefltnringthem in the usual manner by hand or by sewing machines from cloth.But this present application concerns the fabric and the articlesthemselves, and not the apparatus by which they canbe economicallymanufucturedf Referring to Figs'. 1 and 2, the slcevemembers consist oftapered, tubular seamless woven members or Specification of LettersPatent.

Application filed April 30, 1904. Serial No.` 2 05,95

Patented aug. '6, i907.

fabrics, which, after being woven in apiece of fabric reqnireonly to becut out along the outlines plainly indicated in the weaving, and withmore or less handfinishing and minor particulars are ready tob'e'attached to the body portion of the shirt without requir ing theseaming of the length of the sleeve, and without requiring the nso ofexpert cutters. As seen in Fig. 2, the cuff portion of the sleeve ismade ,to be folded back and sewed to form the finished cuff of Fig. 1.The rest of the sleeve may be woven-with a flat selvage along oneor bothlines where the seams would ordinarily cutand this fiat selvage may beturned over and' hemmed-'to give the appearance of the ordinary seam,or", as will be seen in connection with the other figures, the selvagemay be omitted and a, perfect 13ubular sleeve Without seams be used.'.The method of construction will be further referred to in connectionwithsigsstois. t

The portionv ofthe sliirt is woven in 4tubular form, preferablymanyshirtbodies being woven in a single fabric', as be explained, `as isillustrated in A vThe bosomportion `oi`the1shirt C may also be ofthickened or reinforced material, this being preferably thickened bydoubling the warp threads, as the bosom does not extend the entire widthof the fabric. Where the bosom and the yoke Bv moet, the double warp maycontinue through the yoke, thus increasing the thickness of the yoke atthe portion D where shirts are very apt to wear out first. y

F is the trimming for the buttonholes down the front, which preferablyis no t made in the saine piece with the bodyof the -shirt, but is sewedon afterwards.

Print patterns may be applied to the bfzly of the shirt before it is cutfrom the piece of -fabric, and as the shape and location ofthe shirt isalready determined in the fabric `before it is cut out., the pattern mayconform to the shape of the finished article. For the same reasons thepatternsmay be formed by weaving different.c0lore'd or different quality'of threads. Also, the 'i ably two projecting edges J whiqnms'y senss fnask; l ing a hem and join' vthe neck-band Vto the'shirt body;-

- The finishing o f the'. nds and lthe blittonhbls,l andthe 'thickenedfabric.

attaching of the collar to the shirt bosom may'. require ends and alongthe band 'and .the'formation of the but- `to the article to be made fromthe fabric.

. to be followed in c1 These lines may be 30 Fig. 7 shows askirt ofwoven tubular' -thickf ened like the bosom 'in Fig. A1 aroun'dtheplacket hole and tbiclrened'and reinforced like'the yoke; (Fig. I)

around-the waist-band and'around the bottom of the skirtifdesired. l

Figs. 8 and"9.s'how the way the body portion' of the tonholes after-,itis cut out from the fabric in. which it is.

` shirt is woven in the fabric before it is cut out,` the lbose 'wa'rpthreadshaving been trimmed o. This `figure shows that the printed orornamental pattern isprinted on the' tubular fabric in a direct andfixed relationship Also, that the weaving ofthe bosom and yokes has acertain and definite relation to the article to be cut therefrom; The.dott-,and-dash lines indicate the lines of cutting that are vntting outthe 'shirts on the upper .face of the tubular i bric, while the dottedl.lines indicate similar lines on t e under side of the tubularfabric.4

de in the weave, so that the use of a pattern inicutting is notrequired. It will be. seenA from Fig. 8v that the yoke B is longerin theback and comes up higher than in the front, and that the neck is f lowerand deeper inl the front portion and higher. and

i shallower inthe back portion. Consequently geat. economy of materialis effected by reversing the garments alternately inlthe fabric so thatthekback of one shirt meets the front the adjacent shirt. 7 E

Figs. l0 and 11 show the' way the members may be woven in a continuo' stilbular fabric, the skirts being alternately placed waistto 'waist andbottom to bottom reversely. The tubularxiwast portions S at the edges ofthe narrower portion 'nf the skirt at P are of course .'trimmed awayafterward. The thickened portion of 'the waistsand skirt'bottoms areshown at Q and R rewoven in a continuo s strip of fabric, alternatesleeves Figs. l2 and l3 slow the way the sleeves be being reverselyplace so that cuff meets cuff and shoulder meets shoulder. .l Theinterwoven portions -or bias selvages S clearly sholw how to cut out thesleeves without the use of any other guide. lt will be understood thatthe waist portions S between the selvages S are also Woven in tubularform. Similarly, Fig. 14 shows' trousers legs made with selvages S,though it must be understood that both the sleeves and trousers 'can bemade without the selvages,- like the skirts in Figs. l0 vand 11.Selvgcs, however, when turned over and scwed, strengthen the materialand resemble scams.

The foregoing are only examples of the many garments and articles thatmay be made by the use of this invention, and it docs away with the useof expert .cutters and with much of the work' of making up after thecutting. The fabric after the weaving and before cutting may be sold toshirt ,makers and others, or may This only requires hemrning at the I il v' tured lin the where the fabric is woven. 'I The pxiti'ons'ofthefabric, after weaving and cutting, may also advantageously be sold toshirt orI other gar'- nient maker'sto be manufactured as desired. Incutth drawings, it will beseen that-the opposite sides or faces thereofare .of different contours, particularly at the shoulder seams andarm'scyes of the shirt bodies, as

these sides are broken andY ordinarily bi-laterally syminetrical'. `By'providing these cut portionswiththe 1besoins printed or woven thereinand with the reinthe garmentsmay be economically made up by hand orotherwise. Many other ofthe advantages and the varied uses' to which theinvention or parts of it may he lowing: f

1. A tubular woven garment or article having-"a thick* ened'oxreinforced portion woven therein ih which the weft is increasedrelatively tothe other portlon's.

l2. A tubularwoven garment or article having a yoke ln- -terwovendn the'fabric and of greater weight or thickness than 'other portions. A

3. A' tubuiarwoven garment or article having a yoke lntel'wovenin the'fabrlcand of greater weight or thickness than ,otherwportiona the weftbeing relatively heavier or thicker than ln other` portions. i

4. A woven garmentor nrtlcle having a tubular woven portion' with athickened area woven into the fabric.

5. A woven garment or -artlclehavlng a tubular seamless woven bodyportion with a yolke interwoven therein.

6; A wegen garment or article having a tubular seamless woverlfbo'dyportion with n yoke interwoven therein and of-thliikenedor heaviertabl-lc. f Y

7. A tubfulur garment or article having a woven collar, Lcull', orvother portion ol.' double fabric woven integrally with o. singlethickness of adjacent fabric.

8. A garmentl or article having a tubular woven member with ornamentalpatterns ln u. regular relationship to the outline of the article.

9. A garment or article having a tubular woven member with ornamentalpatterns ln a. regular relationship Vto the outline o1' the 'ax-ticle,sal'dpatterns being ln part woven in the fabric ndlnpartprlnted orapplied thereto.

10. A garment or article having a tubular woven member with ornamentalpatterns in a regular relationship to the outline of the article,andwoven in the .tabl-ic.

11. A garment or article havingl a tubular woven member with ornamentalpatterns ln a regular relationship lto the outline ol.' the intendedarticle and printed thereon.

1 2. As a new article ot manufacture, a woven rubric hnvlng tubular'seamless articles .woven therein longitudinally ot the warp threads withthe wett threads extendingr transversely ot the tube and adapted to becut therefrom, the weft threads being continuously interwoven into thefabric.

the weft threads being continuing lengthwise of the, tubes ond the wettthreads transversely thereof, the saidfrtlcles being rversely placed andln ou or 4 more rowsln thefabrlc. l

14. As a new article of manufacture a woven fabric having tubulartapered articles woven therein in a continuous succession of tubesextending lengthwise of the warp threads and transversely of the weft.

1o. As a new article of manufacture a woven fabric hnvlng tubulartapered articles woven therein with one or more thickened or reinforcedareas.

finished article at the place ting out, s. gt, the shirt bodies shown inFigs. 1 and- 8 'of' shown in dotted'lines, Fig. 8'. The contours of both0fA applied, ,will be readily apparent to those familiar with ouslyinterwoven into the fabric the Warp threads extend- -orced yokes alreadydescribed, all waste is saved and width adapted to be cut in makinggarments or. articles S() and 'reversely placed alternately in .one vormore rows lengthwise of the fabric. y

34; As a new article 0f manufacture a woven fahrichav.- lnggarment'members or articleswoven therein and ontlined by selvagesadapted .to be cut` in making garments or S articles .and'aiso.thickened .in portions or areas and re verseiy piaci-.d alt'ernately inthe length of the f abrlv.

.35. .As a new article a tubular woven f ubrlc haring garment members orarticles woven therein and outlined by a visually distince 'weave andhaving differences in pattern 9() at different' portions of the areas ofthe said members or garments ln definite relation to the said 'outliningof the garment.

'36. As a new article a tubular woven tabric having garment members orarticles woven therein and outlined by 9U a visually distinct weave and-eversely placed alternately ln the fabric such visually distinct weaveextendingr in continuous lille or lines of unvuryiug width but varying.rin position relatively to the edges of the fabric forming a 1G. As a news rticle qt manufacture a lwoven fabric having tubular tapered articleswo'veu therein with one vor more selvagesv adapted to be cut the warpthreads extending lengthwise ofthe tubes and the weft threads trans 5versely thereof 'and being continuously interwoven into the fabric. 1i'.As a new article of manufacture n woven fabric havingf tubular taperedarticles woven therein and rcversely placed in the fabric with thetubular portions forming one 10 or more continuoustubes.

18. .As a new article of manufacturea woven fabric havlng tubulartapered articles woven therein, -with one or -more bias selvages adaptedto be cut with the tubular por-- tions forming one or more continuoustubes..

```'i`1).\isa new article of manufacture a woven fabric hav ing acontinuous series of tubular garment members or articles woven thereinwith thickened or 'reinforced areas with outlines by which they'eanbecutout.

. 20. As a new article of manufacture a woven fabric hav: ing tubulargarment members or articles woven therein with one or more selvagesextending` ln continuous lines in the same general direction as thelwarp and-the tubes of said articles.

21. As a new article of manufacture a'woven fabric hav 25 lng tubulargarment membersor 4articles woven therein with one or more bias selvagesextending continuously from article to article, articles woven thereinwith bias seivages between adjacent 22 Aga new article of manumcmre a{mear-fabric hav. articles of substantially lconstant width and adaptedto be ing--a continuous series of, tubular. garmen( members or cut incutting out-the article, und with tur-.dar waste portions betweenadjacent sci vages, subslnV tially as set forth.

37. As a new article n tubular woven fabric having gar- Ament members orarticles woven therein` and outliuedby a visually distlnct...w eave andhaving thickened or. reinforced areas.

articles woven therein with bias selvages between adjacent articlesadapted to be cut in cutting but the articles paid selva 'es being ofconstant width. having A-a continuous series of tubular' taperedarticles 23. s a new article of manufactured lwoven fabric havwie thereWfl* #me 0E lli-f .elll'd lllfs' "Jl Semitic* ing tubular garmentmembers or articles woven therein o cohfolmlng {019mm} 1105 lll thearticles. Sild Sclll's with selvages dividing the fabric into aplurality of tubu- .beill'ofe'lpimximidy lllfl'm.\v ldth.

lar portions that extend in continuous lengths along the 40- AS fabric.having' a continuous series of tubular tapered articles 24. Asa newartlcie of manufactures woven fabric havl folien thfiin andl`evel`5e|imed lll Ul@ flbl'k' Vml 01N mg tubrrlar garment members or articles;vovew therein `or more-selvagesbetwccu them, said seh-ages being of ap-40 with one or more selvages reversely placed alternateiy in' Pmxmmtelycnsriin; VRML one or more rows in the fabric with the 'tubes extendingcontmuousry f desired intervals on one side only of the tubular web.

25. as' a new article or manufact woven fabi-ic im# l $41.4 eterhtubulerfabric hariw; thickened portions vlng u plurality of tubular garment:4members or articges- -containing,additional threads at desired intervalsat one 5 woven side by side therein with o iie or moreselvages 'nepal-menl' "01,'. thertubllal Wei rating them with the tubes thereofextending` continuously.

26. As a new article of manufacture a woven fabric -ha v inc a pluralityof tubular garment members or 'articles woven side by side therein withone or more oblique selvagos separating and outlining them in continuoustnbesory rows. 27. As a` new article of manufacture a. voren fabrichavthe web* I 45. A woven tubular fahric havin" portions ot' a weave inga continuous series of tubular garment members or articles woven Sme bysme therem wmk on? or more seb differing from that of the body of thefabric at desired in .M s u new armere of manufacture ;w-ven' mbrie uwdiffering from that oi' the body of the fabric at desired iulng :l mummyo( tlm-mm1, garment memb or tides tcrvais at one aide only-oli thetubular web. said portions woven side by. side therein with one or more.interwoven 'mmf "t mss www um smh mewas twceu them Sald articles tom'ugmummy o: 4|. As a new article of manufacture. a tubular woven continuoustubes. 'j 2i). As a new article of 'man facture a woven fabric having aplurality of tuhulurgarment members orartlcles woven side by sidetherein with one or more reinforced or G5 thickened areas. 4

having-additional warp tbreadsat desired intervals ai. one osideonlyiof-:thetubuiar web.

44; A woven-tubular fabric having.' thickened portions at desiredintervals at one side only of the tubular web, said 'which portion nre.of different contours on their opposite faces.

48. As a heb' article of hmuulaetnrc, a tululla'rl woven portion of. atubular web, the transversely cui, edges ol` faces, which fut-escorreswnui to the original faces of the web as woven.

49. As u new article of nmnntarlure, a tubular woven portion of atubular web, the transversely cut edges of lng garment members orarticles woven thereinjn part tubular and in part of single thickness offabric approximately equal in thickness to one side of the tubularfabric` 7() 31. As a new article of manufacture a woven fabric hav? lnga continuous series of garment members or articles woven therein andoutlined by biss seivagcs of constant wiglih adapted to be cut ln makinggarments or articles.

32. As a new article of manufacture a woven fabric having garmentmembers or articles woven therein thickened ln portions and outlined byaeivages adapted to bc cut.

325. As a new' article of manufacture a woven fabric having a continuous.series 0f garment members or articles woven therein and outlined bybias selvages of constant faces, the width of said portion being equalto that Aoi' the web as woven.

50. As u new article of manutan-iure,V a tubular woven portion oi.' ntubular web. the transversely cui edges of which portion are ofdifferent. luolten contours on liu-ls' 15 opposite faces.

51. As a new article ol' manufacture, a tubular woven portion of atubular web, the transversely cui edges of waving line-lon'gltudlnallyofthe fabric. 1Q() 3S. A woven fabric having tubular garment members or105 39. s n. new article of manufacture, a woven fabric 110 new-articleof manufacture, a woven fabric 115 41.`A`woven tubnlar fabric havingthickened portions at 120 43. A woven tubular fabric having thickenedportions 125 'thickened'portions being of less width than such side of130 portion of a tubular-web. the transrcisely eut edges of 30. As n newarticle of manufacturer. :oven lfabric hav- .which portion are ofdliercnt contours on their opposite which p0rtion"are of differentcontours on their opposite 1 50 which portion are of diterent contours,each o! whfchis' hi-iateraliy symmetrical on its'opposite faces.

52. As u new-article of manufacture, n tubular woven 'portiou of atubular web, the transversely cut edges of which portion are ofdifferent contours on their opposite 5.4. As n new a ticle ofmanufacture;l a t lar woven' portion of a tubular web, thetransverseiyeut edges ot i MMM". tering from that the other face.

-whlchportion are of different contours on their opposite 15 faces, voneof said faces having a thickened portion. ,i

55. A's a new article of manufacture, a woven fabric consisting ot twowoven layers woven together along a portion of their margins to foi-xn aven tubuiar web, and

the two layers or faces thereof bei g cut transversely of 2*() the tubeln diifering contours as seti Orth.

In testimony whereof I have .sign d this specification in' huiV presenceof two subscribing wit sses.

i ARTHUR Vitnesses z A i A. L. O'BnmN,

` S. R. NIcHoLS.

